Thursday, 14 January 2010
Finale
I'm piking out. I've written all that I want to of this trip. Our final days will be being spent travelling in the bus, waiting in queues, wasting time at the airport, flying several thousand miles and finally being reunited with home. I am ready to come home, and ready to experience what will follow. It has been a terribly long time away from so many familiar experiences but I have learned a great deal and seen so many exhilarating and thought-provoking things. I could not ever regret having taken this sojourn, though I will hope to look forward to more in the future.
Day 35
WEDNESDAY 13th JANUARY
Synopsis of day: Return to Cairo.
Highlight of the day: Swimming alone in the Mediterranean. It was cooler than the Dead Sea but not more than the Red Sea, and it was so calm because of the breakwater near our beach. Lovely.
Lowlight of the day: Not having longer to spend in Alexandria, even though I am ready to go home. A nice paradox.
Toilet ratings: Yay for nice loos.
Favourite photo:
Cultural-shock moment: Egyptian hotels have a midday checkout. It is such a marvellous idea, though not one we've been able to take advantage of except for here and St Katherines.
New food consumed: An iced white chocolate. Served by another appallingly attentive waiter who wanted to know my name... age... and told me that his day had been made better because this beautiful woman (ha! Me!) had walked in. Also for dinner Kerri caved and ordered McDelivery to the hotel.
Random act of crazy: Oh, just the usual traffic stuff. But also, the Egyptians (even more than the Israelis and Jordanians, though they seem to get into the fervour of it too) seem to have Celine Dion addictions. We have heard it played in so many places, and not just the “touristic” ones! Our hotel in Cairo seems to have 'Falling Into You” on permanent rotation.
What Arthur did next: Smoked hasheesh. A lot. In the room next to us. (The odour wafted into our room and it was vile).
Something I want to remember: Even though I don't believe them (especially since some are very flattering) I've noticed the power of compliments on how you feel about yourself and the world in general has been a dramatic thing. I don't know that I'd ever noticed what beauty they could hold for people, since I'm too shy to ever really offer anything like that myself. I've heard the phrase 'when you smile the whole world smiles with you' and while it is such a trite idea, I've felt so sunny in temperament, particularly following such unexpected compliments.
Synopsis of day: Return to Cairo.
Highlight of the day: Swimming alone in the Mediterranean. It was cooler than the Dead Sea but not more than the Red Sea, and it was so calm because of the breakwater near our beach. Lovely.
Lowlight of the day: Not having longer to spend in Alexandria, even though I am ready to go home. A nice paradox.
Toilet ratings: Yay for nice loos.
Favourite photo:
The beach at our hotel.
Cultural-shock moment: Egyptian hotels have a midday checkout. It is such a marvellous idea, though not one we've been able to take advantage of except for here and St Katherines.
New food consumed: An iced white chocolate. Served by another appallingly attentive waiter who wanted to know my name... age... and told me that his day had been made better because this beautiful woman (ha! Me!) had walked in. Also for dinner Kerri caved and ordered McDelivery to the hotel.
Random act of crazy: Oh, just the usual traffic stuff. But also, the Egyptians (even more than the Israelis and Jordanians, though they seem to get into the fervour of it too) seem to have Celine Dion addictions. We have heard it played in so many places, and not just the “touristic” ones! Our hotel in Cairo seems to have 'Falling Into You” on permanent rotation.
What Arthur did next: Smoked hasheesh. A lot. In the room next to us. (The odour wafted into our room and it was vile).
Something I want to remember: Even though I don't believe them (especially since some are very flattering) I've noticed the power of compliments on how you feel about yourself and the world in general has been a dramatic thing. I don't know that I'd ever noticed what beauty they could hold for people, since I'm too shy to ever really offer anything like that myself. I've heard the phrase 'when you smile the whole world smiles with you' and while it is such a trite idea, I've felt so sunny in temperament, particularly following such unexpected compliments.
Day 34
Not all the sights of Alexandria were pretty!
(Though some were).
TUESDAY 12th JANUARY
Synopsis of day: Alexandria and a little retail therapy.
Highlight of the day: The shopping centre in Alexandria – the fashion there was excellent, the prices pretty reasonable and it was so clean and overly comfortable especially compared with souq shopping. (We've been wanting to visit a mall for the entire trip).
To enter the Carrefour (sort of like Woolies and K Mart)
you had to have all your other bags security bagged.
Lowlight of the day: The taxi ride to the Carrefour mall. The driver used his mobile, the seat belts didn't work, I was in the front and it was the most terrifying driving experience I have ever had (ever worse than being in various minor accidents).
Toilet ratings: Those at the Bibliotheca were perfectly fine.
Inside the Bibliotheca (I bought a blow-up Tutankhamun for 3 years plus here!)
Favourite quote/word: “It probably involved pigeons” (Our guide's English was a little hard to follow sometimes and we only got part of a story about Pompey's Pillar but there were pigeons involved. Any time we were trying to decipher what things were, we figured pigeons had played a part). 
The pillar wasn't that exciting.
Favourite photo:
A blow fish at the markets near the port at Alexandria.
Cultural-shock moment: The taxi ride.
New food consumed: felafels at breakfast. How strange but kind of cool.
Random act of crazy: The taxi driver had a police siren and for the first few minutes I was convinced that the cops were after us, but it was actually just being interspersed with the horn. Crazy.
What Arthur did next: We only saw him at lunch time because he chose not to come with us for the tour. We made it everywhere on time and no-one got lost.
Something I want to remember: Walking into the Bibliotheca Alexandrina and marvelling at the books and extent of the collection. We also got to see the Rare Manuscripts museum which showcased a variety of old books and manuscripts from different times and religions, but mostly medieval and early modern Islamic texts.
Outside the castle at the port of Alexandria.
.
Day 33
MONDAY 11th JANUARY
Highlight of the day: Seeing that our accommodation was right on the Mediterranean. That excitement amplified when it became apparent we also had a private beach!
Lowlight of the day: Arthur. Or discovering that I had accidentally deleted all of yesterday's photos. Toilet ratings: One was great, the St Mina's one was a real lowlight, but at least there was a western style one free (and we were eventually able to release Lyn who had somehow been locked inside).
Favourite quote/word: “I've been in the Red Sea, Dead Sea, Med Sea and the Sea-of-Gali-lee.”
Favourite photo:
Cultural-shock moment: Bling in the churches. How many sparkling coloured lights does one need?
The Coptic cross, which I really like.
New food consumed: I had another peanut butter kit kat. So wrong, but so good. Random act of crazy: The flashing light decorations on the pictures of Saints at St Mina's.
What Arthur did next: Was late for our pick up because he had been stealing breakfast food and had three plates to eat (he refuses to eat anything unless it is free, then he gorges) and then had locked his stuff in his safe. He swore at Kerri when she pointed out the time to him (they are not currently on speaking terms) and then left his mobile so we ended up leaving Cairo quite a bit later than anticipated. As ever, it was always someone else's fault. I think it was mostly Kerri's fault as far as he was concerned this morning. He took the free food offered at the monastery even though it was apparently tasteless, disappeared again after our guide had waited behind for him, and bought the most tacky cushion cover of the Virgin and child ever. He also packs most of his stuff in tattered plastic bags which are falling apart and complains that he needs to get another suitcase. Did I ever mention that he is a lawyer who apparently travels for six months of the year? (Meaning his miserly tendencies and inability to meet deadlines should be uncharacteristic). Also since I am really complaining about him, I am sick of seeing his tattered jeans with holes in inappropriate places.
Something I want to remember: How wondrous it was to be standing in the warm water looking out towards the sun and thinking about the many thousands of years of history this water has had, that it touches the heritage of so many ancient and modern cultures, that so many have perished in it, that Paul was shipwrecked on it, and that God has shaped our lives around his creation. The song 'Strong and Constant' came into my heart and it was quite a powerful reflective moment. I really wish that I wasn't complaining so much about Arthur, and I keep reflecting that he too is a child of God and rather than being annoyed by him, I need to share grace and forgiveness.
I can't wait to start my new life by the beach. The wonder of this seaside is filling me with optimism and hope for my life. I've come to a new place today and I am very ready to face my future, whatever befalls. I have been to many places of supreme spiritual significance and maybe because the time I spent there didn't often allow reflection, it has taken until now before I am truly feeling the impact that seeing those places has had on me.
I am a truly blessed child. I'm almost crying because I feel so emotional at the moment. I have been doing a lot of thinking about how nice it has been to have someone with me as I travel, and to know that I am coming home to a family that adore me (in spite of how uniquely annoying I can be) yet I am still lonely. But here – in spite of the fact that I am in the presence of no-one, I am in the presence of my Father, and that is more than enough – I am never really alone. I pray that will always be enough to sustain me, that I won't seek fulfilment in things that will not satisfy, or think more of myself than of others.
As I am on the cusp of the new year, I also glimpse the future but so much of it is still glassy and unclear. I've just finished reading a biography of Ruth by Francine Rivers, and I want so much to be as loyal and trusting in the will of God rather than trying to force my own direction. I was also listening to some podcasts on Proverbs, and the true value of wisdom. The fear of God is the beginning of wisdom. Once anew, I'm giving everything up to Him, realising that nothing I offer but myself – my whole self - is ever enough. I don't really know where my life is going, or what I am being shaped to do, or whether I will do it alone, but I am so earnestly praying and trying to believe that in time, I will be not as I will, but as He wills.
We drove out of Cairo to Alexandria via St Mina's Coptic Orthodox Church, but beside my sunset reflections, what significance is that?
Day 32
SUNDAY 10th JANUARY
Synopsis of day: Cairo is a big, smoggy place but oh! the civilisation!
Highlight of the day: Finally seeing the Egyptian museum, a place I have wanted to visit all my life. We didn't have the time to see it all, but so many of the very famous artefacts were included. The entry ticket was so low compared to what I would have been willing to pay.
Lowlight of the day: I was a bit horrified by how much I liked the mosque that we went into. All the hundreds of mosques we have driven past have green lighting and this mosque, the Mohamed Ali (a past ruler, not boxer) Mosque, was stunningly beautiful and designed with a green theme within. These photos were the ones I was most disappointed about losing from yesterday (we weren't permitted to take any in the Egyptian museum).
Toilet ratings: Egyptian Museum ones were so awful we all recoiled and decided to wait for another one. These at least were marginally better, but equal payment is usually required despite the variable quality.
Favourite photo:
Cultural-shock moment: We were able to enter two churches, a synagogue and mosque all within a few hours. The differences in how people commemorate worship and the different attitudes of reverence is an interesting study.
New food consumed: Most delicious fish I've had in ages. Like, years. Also a fresh mango juice. WOW.
Random act of crazy: Khan-el-Khalili souq.
What Arthur did next: Didn't turn up this morning for the designated departure time. We ended up leaving without him after a while. Later that evening, he told us he'd been up on a bender with some unexpected friends and two bottles of vodka and slept through. We gathered from that we could have been waiting for a very long time had we not been fed up with him and gone.
Something I want to remember: The brittle and yet astonishing levels of preservation of the royal mummies, and thoughts concerning ethical display of human remains.
Note that I lost all the images from this day except for a few traffic photos. I was delighted to discover that the Egyptian museum had been changed to be our morning rather than afternoon destination. We were really only there long enough to see most of the famous treasures, and I will have to return there to have a complete experience. Tutakhamun's mask and many of his burial treasures were just as I had imagined, but I most enjoyed seeing the hall of the Egyptian royal mummies and some of the wooden work from the OK. Also the Narmer Palette was our first artefact and I thought that was incredibly awesome, because I thought it might have been located in the Louvre or British Museum (though given its significance to Egypt is arguably equal or greater than the Rosetta stone, one would prefer to it be in its country of origin). Those sources were truly marvellous, and I cannot doubt that my teaching about Egyptian culture has been significantly enhanced by what I have seen and wondered over these past few days. The museum felt largely like an old storeroom and not everything was labelled or even encased. A larger and more modern museum is being constructed (with completion c. 2013 and it will be the largest museum in the world) and it is sorely needed for the museum was crowded both with people and artefacts.
The mummified bodies were beautiful to behold (I think most people would disagree with me on this) and I was transfixed by the fingers and eyelids. The bodies were so tiny and fragile, and looking at the colour of the body from the passage of time and natron, I couldn't help but want to comprehend their thoughts about the afterlife, and to wonder at the horror of having the body publically displayed to gawking and noisy tourists. It is both an historically precious and ethically complicated action, with a little macabre thrown in for extra measure. Ramesses II's hair was still visible and his mummy was probably the best preserved there. I had far too much wicked pleasure seeing Thutmosis II, Hatshepsut and Thutmosis III so close to one another in death, given their shared histories. Seeing Hatshepsut's mummy was the most exciting for me because it is only a recent identification, and when I studied her in year 11, the expectation was that she would be unlikely to be ever identified. The narrative about how this was achieved will be another interesting story to share with students – I've picked up a couple but I think this one might be my favourite – it also helps that it has its accompanying pun in “Hot-chick's-tooth” which is more child friendly than the one we learned for Ramesses II.
We had to hurry in the museum shop because it was crowded and we weren't allocated much time. I was so frantic that I mustn't have been thinking and bought a bunch of things accidentally in French (I just read the titles and didn't take the time to realise they needed translation!). While this is not necessarily a bad thing, some of those purchases were purchased for people who don't read French!
Following our visit in the museum we headed around to some various religious sites. We started off in the Orthodox church, which was suspended over something small. It was the nicest large church that we had been to in a while, and the loveliest Orthodox church outside the monasteries. Ash, who is Coptic Orthodox, explained the design of the tower pulpit, which has thirteen columns (twelve for the apostles [Thomas and Judas' were darker in colour] with six different designs since they were sent out in twos. At the front was the thirteenth representing Christ.
We next visited a synagogue, and after having seen several ancient forms, it felt more familiar and recognisable. I also realised how much I was missing seeing Hebrew written everywhere! I haven't warmed to Arabic as much. We headed off towards another Orthodox church which was very close to the Nile in earlier times and is probably famous for something but I can't remember what. Something to do with the Holy Family which may be(or may not, but probably is) rot. There was a poster showing all the sites that were supposedly visited or lived in, but the archaeologist in me is highly spurious.
We went after that to the Mohamed Ali mosque and it was the first I'd ever entered. It was absolutely beautiful. See Kerri's journal for more profound and educational commentary. I was really disappointed to discover that my pictures were lost when I tried to transfer them, but was really thankful it was this day rather than some or all of the earlier ones, which would have been devastating.
Kerri and Mary bought a fez in the marketplace right outside of it, and we saw them being made. I was saving my money for our next location, the Khan-el-Khalili marketplace, which we only barely touched. I'm sure on Getaway I've seen it larger. Regardless of the fact that we were only there for an hour and made it around one block, I managed to buy plenty, bargain heaps, annoy Kerri, get a marriage proposal and various out flirtatious comments, was mistaken for a German and saw and smelt crazy things.
When we got home, because we had been purchasing at such a mad rate at the Egyptian Museum and markets, Kerri and I did a show and tell to see what we had actually bought! We also had to pack our bags once more, and we've started leaving stuff behind which we don't anticipate needing. We also went to the Japanese restaurant at the hotel which was very exciting for us both because we've had so much Middle Eastern food, and Asian was such a nice change. Yay.
Synopsis of day: Cairo is a big, smoggy place but oh! the civilisation!
Highlight of the day: Finally seeing the Egyptian museum, a place I have wanted to visit all my life. We didn't have the time to see it all, but so many of the very famous artefacts were included. The entry ticket was so low compared to what I would have been willing to pay.
Lowlight of the day: I was a bit horrified by how much I liked the mosque that we went into. All the hundreds of mosques we have driven past have green lighting and this mosque, the Mohamed Ali (a past ruler, not boxer) Mosque, was stunningly beautiful and designed with a green theme within. These photos were the ones I was most disappointed about losing from yesterday (we weren't permitted to take any in the Egyptian museum).
Toilet ratings: Egyptian Museum ones were so awful we all recoiled and decided to wait for another one. These at least were marginally better, but equal payment is usually required despite the variable quality.
Favourite photo:
Random taxis that you just jump into, since they leave the doors open.
I haven't worked out how you pay for this since other people are travelling with you on this
- it seems like a mini-bus.
Cultural-shock moment: We were able to enter two churches, a synagogue and mosque all within a few hours. The differences in how people commemorate worship and the different attitudes of reverence is an interesting study.
New food consumed: Most delicious fish I've had in ages. Like, years. Also a fresh mango juice. WOW.
Random act of crazy: Khan-el-Khalili souq.
What Arthur did next: Didn't turn up this morning for the designated departure time. We ended up leaving without him after a while. Later that evening, he told us he'd been up on a bender with some unexpected friends and two bottles of vodka and slept through. We gathered from that we could have been waiting for a very long time had we not been fed up with him and gone.
Something I want to remember: The brittle and yet astonishing levels of preservation of the royal mummies, and thoughts concerning ethical display of human remains.
Note that I lost all the images from this day except for a few traffic photos. I was delighted to discover that the Egyptian museum had been changed to be our morning rather than afternoon destination. We were really only there long enough to see most of the famous treasures, and I will have to return there to have a complete experience. Tutakhamun's mask and many of his burial treasures were just as I had imagined, but I most enjoyed seeing the hall of the Egyptian royal mummies and some of the wooden work from the OK. Also the Narmer Palette was our first artefact and I thought that was incredibly awesome, because I thought it might have been located in the Louvre or British Museum (though given its significance to Egypt is arguably equal or greater than the Rosetta stone, one would prefer to it be in its country of origin). Those sources were truly marvellous, and I cannot doubt that my teaching about Egyptian culture has been significantly enhanced by what I have seen and wondered over these past few days. The museum felt largely like an old storeroom and not everything was labelled or even encased. A larger and more modern museum is being constructed (with completion c. 2013 and it will be the largest museum in the world) and it is sorely needed for the museum was crowded both with people and artefacts.
The mummified bodies were beautiful to behold (I think most people would disagree with me on this) and I was transfixed by the fingers and eyelids. The bodies were so tiny and fragile, and looking at the colour of the body from the passage of time and natron, I couldn't help but want to comprehend their thoughts about the afterlife, and to wonder at the horror of having the body publically displayed to gawking and noisy tourists. It is both an historically precious and ethically complicated action, with a little macabre thrown in for extra measure. Ramesses II's hair was still visible and his mummy was probably the best preserved there. I had far too much wicked pleasure seeing Thutmosis II, Hatshepsut and Thutmosis III so close to one another in death, given their shared histories. Seeing Hatshepsut's mummy was the most exciting for me because it is only a recent identification, and when I studied her in year 11, the expectation was that she would be unlikely to be ever identified. The narrative about how this was achieved will be another interesting story to share with students – I've picked up a couple but I think this one might be my favourite – it also helps that it has its accompanying pun in “Hot-chick's-tooth” which is more child friendly than the one we learned for Ramesses II.
We had to hurry in the museum shop because it was crowded and we weren't allocated much time. I was so frantic that I mustn't have been thinking and bought a bunch of things accidentally in French (I just read the titles and didn't take the time to realise they needed translation!). While this is not necessarily a bad thing, some of those purchases were purchased for people who don't read French!
Advertisements. My particular fave is the red one for a "scarph"
Typical street front in Cairo.
Following our visit in the museum we headed around to some various religious sites. We started off in the Orthodox church, which was suspended over something small. It was the nicest large church that we had been to in a while, and the loveliest Orthodox church outside the monasteries. Ash, who is Coptic Orthodox, explained the design of the tower pulpit, which has thirteen columns (twelve for the apostles [Thomas and Judas' were darker in colour] with six different designs since they were sent out in twos. At the front was the thirteenth representing Christ.
We next visited a synagogue, and after having seen several ancient forms, it felt more familiar and recognisable. I also realised how much I was missing seeing Hebrew written everywhere! I haven't warmed to Arabic as much. We headed off towards another Orthodox church which was very close to the Nile in earlier times and is probably famous for something but I can't remember what. Something to do with the Holy Family which may be(or may not, but probably is) rot. There was a poster showing all the sites that were supposedly visited or lived in, but the archaeologist in me is highly spurious.
Look at the guys in the ute - Solomon style!
Traffic police seem completely ineffective.
We went after that to the Mohamed Ali mosque and it was the first I'd ever entered. It was absolutely beautiful. See Kerri's journal for more profound and educational commentary. I was really disappointed to discover that my pictures were lost when I tried to transfer them, but was really thankful it was this day rather than some or all of the earlier ones, which would have been devastating.
Kerri and Mary bought a fez in the marketplace right outside of it, and we saw them being made. I was saving my money for our next location, the Khan-el-Khalili marketplace, which we only barely touched. I'm sure on Getaway I've seen it larger. Regardless of the fact that we were only there for an hour and made it around one block, I managed to buy plenty, bargain heaps, annoy Kerri, get a marriage proposal and various out flirtatious comments, was mistaken for a German and saw and smelt crazy things.
When we got home, because we had been purchasing at such a mad rate at the Egyptian Museum and markets, Kerri and I did a show and tell to see what we had actually bought! We also had to pack our bags once more, and we've started leaving stuff behind which we don't anticipate needing. We also went to the Japanese restaurant at the hotel which was very exciting for us both because we've had so much Middle Eastern food, and Asian was such a nice change. Yay.
Traffic on the way to the museum.
Day 31
SATURDAY 9th JANUARY
Synopsis of day: Quintessential OK Egypt
Highlight of the day: Memphis? Sakkara? Giza? The camel? The Sphinx? I can hardly decide.
Lowlight of the day: Stupid, arrogant Arthur explaining why he thought he was above the rules and citing all the forbidden places in Egypt where he has taken photographs.
Toilet ratings: Not great but not wretched either.
Favourite quote/word: “Sometimes I just want to pinch myself as I remember 'I'm here in Egypt' and now I've been to the pyramids!”
Favourite photo: I have about five.
Cultural-shock moment: We went to a carpet making place, and there were children working.
New food consumed: A great eggplant and chickpea salad at lunch.
Random act of crazy: Cairo traffic is intensely psycho.
What Arthur did next: See lowlight. I am consoling myself that I have less than a week of his presence.
Something I want to remember: That I have been once again to places I have dreamed of. My camel ride near the pyramids. Coolness!
We woke up and breakfasted at a fairly typical hour but the traffic in Cairo is so consistently heavy that it takes a while to get anywhere. We were headed in the direction of the old city of Memphis. While the site itself might be large we were only able to see a small but still impressive collection of statues, sarcophagi, stelae and even an alabaster sphinx. What is most remarkable about the work I think is not the size or detail, but that in almost every circumstance, the work is completed using only one piece of the material, whether granite, basalt, alabaster, limestone or otherwise. We are talking about things commonly several metres high and weighing multiple tonnes here.
As Memphis was capital of Upper and Lower Egypt until the prominence of Thebes (Luxor) in the Middle Kingdom, most work that we saw was Old Kingdom, with a smattering of 18/19th Dynasty (New Kingdom). Given that these are the time periods I studied in Year 11, I was pretty excited about seeing these.
I was more excited about the prospect of Sakkara though. Before we arrived there we stopped at a carpet making place. I hadn't realised that Egypt was home to this industry (somewhat foolishly expecting that even though Egypt was a Persian satrapy in Achaemenid times, Persian carpetry was more limited to Iran). We were shown a carpet school where different forms of carpet were made, and the workshop downstairs was so barren except for the simply gorgeous carpets being created by young teenagers and the odd adult. Apparently the schools are established and do offer academic schooling in addition to an apprenticeship of sorts, but it still smacked of child labour.
In spite of that I fell desperately in love with a particular piece which was heavily neo-classical but it would have meant I would have been left with about $50 to my name. There were still a number of days left on the trip, and I tried to be sage by reasoning that one day if I am in a better financial position it might be more prudent then, whereas now it would just be vanity. One of the salesmen had been very nice and ended up giving me a rose. A red rose! Also for the completely random – we met a few Australians in the shop, and lo and behold, they were mostly from Campbelltown, with one from Bargo! (We had to leave before I met the Bargo one, so I only heard of her, but one of the Campbelltown couples used to live in Tahmoor too).
We weren't permitted to take photos of Imhotep's complex at Sakkara, but there seemed a distinct lack of care for the preservation of the columns (which are 5th dynasty to nearly as early as they come in Egypt). They did seem as though they were in an excellent condition all things considered, but it was still more exciting thing to walk through and into an open courtyard and view Djoser's step pyramid. It was also here that our guide politely told us that his name was Ashrof, whereas we had been calling him Mustafa (Kerri and I felt as though we were having another Pam moment). Ash has been the most well-informed guide of ours in Egypt and has been very courteous. He is also fond of photography and was often showing us the best locations for sites and offering tto take photos for us, or of us if we desired. (It has been complicated trying to explain that Kerri and I just happen to like taking pictures of ourselves). He drew us a diagram of how the pyramid is now presumed to have been constructed which I found remarkably interesting. There has also been a recent discovery (last week) within the complex of another tomb (though by the sounds of it, such discoveries are commonplace in a place so rich in past civilisations.
After an excellent shared lunch (which reminded us fondly of our Israeli salads) in view of the Giza pyramids, we drove up towards the pyramids. It was a strangely complex thing for me to view these pinions of antiquity amongst the cloudy smog of the city (the air is so dirty and a number of us have developed coughs in Cairo – funnily enough I seem to be exempt). It felt so conflicting to see the accomplishment of the ancients right amongst the haphazard and hectic streets of cars, concrete buildings and people. I am finding it complicated to explain what this was like and how I felt about it, because it was neither positive or negative (though with hints of each), but nor was it at all neutral. Maybe ambivalent? Maybe not.
Walking up to the pyramids felt like moments whereby we encapsulated our journey to Egypt and it was electrically exciting. I don't think someone who is not an historian could feel what I felt (theirs would be different but equally significant), but it was a charged and viscerally gratifying time. The lowest row of bricks was only a few centimetres smaller than me, so they must have been a metre and a half at least. We were only permitted to climb up a few rows and I'm supporting the theory the pyramids were built by aliens because really, they are enormous, and impossibly so for their time. :)
We were taken to a few different vantage spots and at one of them four of us took a camel ride. It definitely felt higher up than it had in Sinai, likely because I could ascertain exactly how far I was from the ground that time. Or maybe my camel was taller. I was more confident this time so I did take the opportunity to take some photographs. Following that, we rounded off our day by driving around to the Sphinx and amused ourselves by taking silly photos, some of which turned out really well!
It was just turning sunset so the police were busily herding tourists out and most seemed to ignore them because the sight was more impressive with the sun going down, and who wouldn't want to capture that?
We were very tired by the time we made it back to the rooms but we then ended up being taken out to dinner on a boat on the banks of the Nile. It wasn't as excellent as lunch, but the view was really something. We've seen some truly wondrous things today.
Synopsis of day: Quintessential OK Egypt
Highlight of the day: Memphis? Sakkara? Giza? The camel? The Sphinx? I can hardly decide.
Lowlight of the day: Stupid, arrogant Arthur explaining why he thought he was above the rules and citing all the forbidden places in Egypt where he has taken photographs.
Toilet ratings: Not great but not wretched either.
Favourite quote/word: “Sometimes I just want to pinch myself as I remember 'I'm here in Egypt' and now I've been to the pyramids!”
Favourite photo: I have about five.
Cultural-shock moment: We went to a carpet making place, and there were children working.
New food consumed: A great eggplant and chickpea salad at lunch.
Random act of crazy: Cairo traffic is intensely psycho.
What Arthur did next: See lowlight. I am consoling myself that I have less than a week of his presence.
Something I want to remember: That I have been once again to places I have dreamed of. My camel ride near the pyramids. Coolness!
We woke up and breakfasted at a fairly typical hour but the traffic in Cairo is so consistently heavy that it takes a while to get anywhere. We were headed in the direction of the old city of Memphis. While the site itself might be large we were only able to see a small but still impressive collection of statues, sarcophagi, stelae and even an alabaster sphinx. What is most remarkable about the work I think is not the size or detail, but that in almost every circumstance, the work is completed using only one piece of the material, whether granite, basalt, alabaster, limestone or otherwise. We are talking about things commonly several metres high and weighing multiple tonnes here.
Ramesses II and a flirty old guard. We attract them young and old here.
Kerri and I in front of an alabaster sphinx of Hatshepsut.
I was more excited about the prospect of Sakkara though. Before we arrived there we stopped at a carpet making place. I hadn't realised that Egypt was home to this industry (somewhat foolishly expecting that even though Egypt was a Persian satrapy in Achaemenid times, Persian carpetry was more limited to Iran). We were shown a carpet school where different forms of carpet were made, and the workshop downstairs was so barren except for the simply gorgeous carpets being created by young teenagers and the odd adult. Apparently the schools are established and do offer academic schooling in addition to an apprenticeship of sorts, but it still smacked of child labour.
In spite of that I fell desperately in love with a particular piece which was heavily neo-classical but it would have meant I would have been left with about $50 to my name. There were still a number of days left on the trip, and I tried to be sage by reasoning that one day if I am in a better financial position it might be more prudent then, whereas now it would just be vanity. One of the salesmen had been very nice and ended up giving me a rose. A red rose! Also for the completely random – we met a few Australians in the shop, and lo and behold, they were mostly from Campbelltown, with one from Bargo! (We had to leave before I met the Bargo one, so I only heard of her, but one of the Campbelltown couples used to live in Tahmoor too).
We weren't permitted to take photos of Imhotep's complex at Sakkara, but there seemed a distinct lack of care for the preservation of the columns (which are 5th dynasty to nearly as early as they come in Egypt). They did seem as though they were in an excellent condition all things considered, but it was still more exciting thing to walk through and into an open courtyard and view Djoser's step pyramid. It was also here that our guide politely told us that his name was Ashrof, whereas we had been calling him Mustafa (Kerri and I felt as though we were having another Pam moment). Ash has been the most well-informed guide of ours in Egypt and has been very courteous. He is also fond of photography and was often showing us the best locations for sites and offering tto take photos for us, or of us if we desired. (It has been complicated trying to explain that Kerri and I just happen to like taking pictures of ourselves). He drew us a diagram of how the pyramid is now presumed to have been constructed which I found remarkably interesting. There has also been a recent discovery (last week) within the complex of another tomb (though by the sounds of it, such discoveries are commonplace in a place so rich in past civilisations.
After an excellent shared lunch (which reminded us fondly of our Israeli salads) in view of the Giza pyramids, we drove up towards the pyramids. It was a strangely complex thing for me to view these pinions of antiquity amongst the cloudy smog of the city (the air is so dirty and a number of us have developed coughs in Cairo – funnily enough I seem to be exempt). It felt so conflicting to see the accomplishment of the ancients right amongst the haphazard and hectic streets of cars, concrete buildings and people. I am finding it complicated to explain what this was like and how I felt about it, because it was neither positive or negative (though with hints of each), but nor was it at all neutral. Maybe ambivalent? Maybe not.
Walking up to the pyramids felt like moments whereby we encapsulated our journey to Egypt and it was electrically exciting. I don't think someone who is not an historian could feel what I felt (theirs would be different but equally significant), but it was a charged and viscerally gratifying time. The lowest row of bricks was only a few centimetres smaller than me, so they must have been a metre and a half at least. We were only permitted to climb up a few rows and I'm supporting the theory the pyramids were built by aliens because really, they are enormous, and impossibly so for their time. :)
It was just turning sunset so the police were busily herding tourists out and most seemed to ignore them because the sight was more impressive with the sun going down, and who wouldn't want to capture that?
We were very tired by the time we made it back to the rooms but we then ended up being taken out to dinner on a boat on the banks of the Nile. It wasn't as excellent as lunch, but the view was really something. We've seen some truly wondrous things today.
Day 30
FRIDAY 8th JANUARY.
Synopsis of day: Abu Simbel
Highlight of the day: The glistening of Lake Nasser right in front of Abu Simbel, and discovering how interesting the site of Abu Simbel is because of its relocation history.
Lowlight of the day: We didn't get into our hotel at Cairo before 1.30am.
Toilet ratings: Erk they really need toilet paper. Especially if you're paying for the loo, they should at least provide that.
Favourite quote/word: “Nefertari.. who was better known as Ethel.”
Favourite photo:
Cultural-shock moment: Every EgyptAir plane flights being delayed by at least four hours because the planes hadn't arrived from Cairo or elsewhere, arrival at the airport being “paied for by the driver” and going to “chick in”
New food consumed: Chicken McArabia. Also they don't do small sizes here at Maccas – their medium is our large, and large is like a massive supersize, and there is a super size above that!
Favourite purchase: A bright green scarf.
Random act of crazy: As we were walking along in Aswan a car drove by which had about twelve Muslim men, women and children in it, and they were all pointing at us and laughing. We found it highly ironic.
Something I want to remember: The pretty. Always the pretty.
Number of times I have been told I have a nice smile: Almost as many times as Kerri and I have been told we have nice eyes (I think they were enchanting for one man).
Today was one of flights. When we arrived at “chick in” at the airport it was to discover that our AirEgypt flight to Abu Simbel had been delayed for four hours (which was roughly when we were expecting to be back). Our agent arranged a flight with a different airline, Air Memphis, and we were able to arrive only a few minutes after we had intended. The tickets were a bit of a joke on the way there, but even less informative on the way back (they were completely blank) and the seating was a case of first in best dressed. I didn't sit next to anyone on the way down, and I can't remember the last time I had that luxury. I spent most of the three flights of that day engrossed in my Francine Rivers and was always disappointed that we had arrived (the flights were pretty quick and although noisy, there were no other issues).
It was a hot day and because we had checked out our luggage from the boat, I was carrying Jules everywhere. I was always relieved if there was an opportunity to put my bag down! Our guide was the most informative Egyptian one we've had to date, and I found myself quite transfixed in the history of Abu Simbel, most of which I was unfamiliar with. After seeing so many pictures, I had really expected the statues of Ramses II to be higher, but they didn't feel that much larger than anything I had seen in Luxor or Deir-el-Bahri.
Inside the temple were the Battle of Kadesh carvings and inscriptions (more Megiddo!!) and I properly annoyed Kerri once more by daring to mention the 'M-word'. We were both amazed at the work which much have been entailed in resettling the temple in its new location above (rather than several metres within) Lake Nasser (which was very blue and sparkly). I liked that there was an ankh symbol for the key to the door of Abu Simbel, and that the guard let me take a picture of him with the key.
Once more the shopkeepers were overly friendly and to the others overly persuasive, but I made it back having purchased only an ice-block. After our flight we stopped off at McDonalds and it was really exciting because it was both airconditioned and smoke-free (and that is SUCH a novelty here). There were chicken and fish big macs and about four different fish burgers. No McCafe but there was a big soup tureen! Apparently you can also get a McDelivery (and we saw the same thing advertised at a Kentucky Fried Camel (as it is affectionately known here – I was amused by that).
Phil and Sharyn walked directly back but Lyn, Kerri, Mary and myself (the avid shoppers) took a more round-a-bout way through the streets and souq of Aswan. I was really pleased that I did because we encountered some really special (not necessarily good) sights and smells, and seemed to be quite a tourist attraction. Once again I had far too much fun fobbing off and bargaining with street vendors and shopkeepers. One propositioned me directly while others just tried to flatter us or entice us into our shops. Our favourite attempt was one man who smiled and said “I don't know what you want but I have it here!” which was an improvement on others like “No hassle!” (lies) and “No price for looking” or “I pay you to look!” (we never entered those ones because it was obviously lies).
We finally made it back to the boat and had one room booked for the lot of us, so some of us went upstairs but I ended up having another nap, which was just as well given how long it was before we made it to bed. We waited around in the Aswan airport again for a while and I listened to some Mark Driscoll podcasts before highly amusing a little girl with fan unfurling competitions (she always beat me). We were delayed after the flight because Arthur had requested his manicure set (which had been confiscated because it was in his backpack) to be sent as luggage and it didn't turn up so he went missing in search of it. It was already close to 1am by this point and it was close to an hour to travel to the hotel from the airport so we were absolutely exhausted by the time it came to get to bed.
Synopsis of day: Abu Simbel
Highlight of the day: The glistening of Lake Nasser right in front of Abu Simbel, and discovering how interesting the site of Abu Simbel is because of its relocation history.
Lowlight of the day: We didn't get into our hotel at Cairo before 1.30am.
Toilet ratings: Erk they really need toilet paper. Especially if you're paying for the loo, they should at least provide that.
Favourite quote/word: “Nefertari.. who was better known as Ethel.”
Favourite photo:
Cultural-shock moment: Every EgyptAir plane flights being delayed by at least four hours because the planes hadn't arrived from Cairo or elsewhere, arrival at the airport being “paied for by the driver” and going to “chick in”
New food consumed: Chicken McArabia. Also they don't do small sizes here at Maccas – their medium is our large, and large is like a massive supersize, and there is a super size above that!
Favourite purchase: A bright green scarf.
Random act of crazy: As we were walking along in Aswan a car drove by which had about twelve Muslim men, women and children in it, and they were all pointing at us and laughing. We found it highly ironic.
Something I want to remember: The pretty. Always the pretty.
Number of times I have been told I have a nice smile: Almost as many times as Kerri and I have been told we have nice eyes (I think they were enchanting for one man).
Today was one of flights. When we arrived at “chick in” at the airport it was to discover that our AirEgypt flight to Abu Simbel had been delayed for four hours (which was roughly when we were expecting to be back). Our agent arranged a flight with a different airline, Air Memphis, and we were able to arrive only a few minutes after we had intended. The tickets were a bit of a joke on the way there, but even less informative on the way back (they were completely blank) and the seating was a case of first in best dressed. I didn't sit next to anyone on the way down, and I can't remember the last time I had that luxury. I spent most of the three flights of that day engrossed in my Francine Rivers and was always disappointed that we had arrived (the flights were pretty quick and although noisy, there were no other issues).
Part of Lake Nasser - this picture doesn't indicate its sheer size - about 450km!
It was a hot day and because we had checked out our luggage from the boat, I was carrying Jules everywhere. I was always relieved if there was an opportunity to put my bag down! Our guide was the most informative Egyptian one we've had to date, and I found myself quite transfixed in the history of Abu Simbel, most of which I was unfamiliar with. After seeing so many pictures, I had really expected the statues of Ramses II to be higher, but they didn't feel that much larger than anything I had seen in Luxor or Deir-el-Bahri.
People, to provide an indicator of size.
Once more the shopkeepers were overly friendly and to the others overly persuasive, but I made it back having purchased only an ice-block. After our flight we stopped off at McDonalds and it was really exciting because it was both airconditioned and smoke-free (and that is SUCH a novelty here). There were chicken and fish big macs and about four different fish burgers. No McCafe but there was a big soup tureen! Apparently you can also get a McDelivery (and we saw the same thing advertised at a Kentucky Fried Camel (as it is affectionately known here – I was amused by that).
Phil and Sharyn walked directly back but Lyn, Kerri, Mary and myself (the avid shoppers) took a more round-a-bout way through the streets and souq of Aswan. I was really pleased that I did because we encountered some really special (not necessarily good) sights and smells, and seemed to be quite a tourist attraction. Once again I had far too much fun fobbing off and bargaining with street vendors and shopkeepers. One propositioned me directly while others just tried to flatter us or entice us into our shops. Our favourite attempt was one man who smiled and said “I don't know what you want but I have it here!” which was an improvement on others like “No hassle!” (lies) and “No price for looking” or “I pay you to look!” (we never entered those ones because it was obviously lies).
We finally made it back to the boat and had one room booked for the lot of us, so some of us went upstairs but I ended up having another nap, which was just as well given how long it was before we made it to bed. We waited around in the Aswan airport again for a while and I listened to some Mark Driscoll podcasts before highly amusing a little girl with fan unfurling competitions (she always beat me). We were delayed after the flight because Arthur had requested his manicure set (which had been confiscated because it was in his backpack) to be sent as luggage and it didn't turn up so he went missing in search of it. It was already close to 1am by this point and it was close to an hour to travel to the hotel from the airport so we were absolutely exhausted by the time it came to get to bed.
Day 29
THURSDAY 7th JANUARY
One week to go!!!
Synopsis of day: A leisurely visit in Aswan
Highlight of the day: I liked almost every part of today.
Lowlight of the day: Getting in the pool was a shock – it was the coldest water I think I've ever been in. Once I was in it was great and the view was fabulous.
Favourite photo:
Cultural-shock moment: Lack of OHS. Constantly bewilders me.
New food consumed: A caramel syrup with banana and coconut.
Random act of crazy: The number of ways towels can be manipulated into different shapes, These housekeeping guys are hysterical. Something I want to remember: Looking out over the Nile from the pool.
Number of times I was mistaken for being Dutch: Still not as common as British or American (and someone asked us if we were from Oklahoma too – um, hardly!)
Our full day in Aswan, the largest city in upper Egypt commenced with a drive to the Upper Dam, which was created to assist with more constant irrigation of the Nile etc. It was all sparkly and nice on one side, and all engineering on the other.
A tourist policeman beckoned to Kerri and I and personally showed us another example of carving into the rock of a huge shape – it might also have been intended for an obelisk but was not as complete.
We've been having an excellent run with kind Egyptian men showing us or doing things that we didn't expect, or which others have not received. They generally also beam at us and call us beautiful. It has been quite unnerving at times because that would never happen in Australia, and we don't believe it either.
It was nearly the middle of the day and we spent it sailing down the Nile on a little felucca. There was no pier for boarding, we just walked up on a fairly rickety thick plank. Kerri was most unimpressed I think, and was strongly considering not going. Again, I seemed the more adventurous one and largely enjoyed myself, though sometimes it felt like we were very close to the water.
Sailing down the Nile as we watched our tanned and barefoot sailor navigate the water was an enjoyable experience, and once again I was so thankful that we have had such useful guides the whole way through. I really see the value in bilingualism, because the language divide can sometimes feel so intimidating, even in mild and quite safe circumstances. Navigating the country and organising things would make this trip so much more complicated.
When we returned to our boat I took a dip in the seriously icy waters of the plunge pool on the roof. Looking out from there to the Nile river, to numerous feluccas and the desert beyond was a really special experience, and I listened to some podcasts and read for a while after that, packed my bag and just generally enjoyed the relaxed feel of the afternoon. Again we had free time but we spent it on naps!
We briefly stopped at a memorial signifying Egypt's co-operation with the Soviet Union which was shaped as a lotus flower and quite enormous.
One week to go!!!
Synopsis of day: A leisurely visit in Aswan
Highlight of the day: I liked almost every part of today.
Lowlight of the day: Getting in the pool was a shock – it was the coldest water I think I've ever been in. Once I was in it was great and the view was fabulous.
Favourite photo:
View from the felucca ride on the Nile.
Cultural-shock moment: Lack of OHS. Constantly bewilders me.
New food consumed: A caramel syrup with banana and coconut.
Random act of crazy: The number of ways towels can be manipulated into different shapes, These housekeeping guys are hysterical. Something I want to remember: Looking out over the Nile from the pool.
Number of times I was mistaken for being Dutch: Still not as common as British or American (and someone asked us if we were from Oklahoma too – um, hardly!)
Our full day in Aswan, the largest city in upper Egypt commenced with a drive to the Upper Dam, which was created to assist with more constant irrigation of the Nile etc. It was all sparkly and nice on one side, and all engineering on the other.
Moving back to more ancient times, we saw a granite quarry with an unfinished obelisk. It was such a hot day and we felt like billy goats stepping up and around it.
A tourist policeman beckoned to Kerri and I and personally showed us another example of carving into the rock of a huge shape – it might also have been intended for an obelisk but was not as complete.
We've been having an excellent run with kind Egyptian men showing us or doing things that we didn't expect, or which others have not received. They generally also beam at us and call us beautiful. It has been quite unnerving at times because that would never happen in Australia, and we don't believe it either.
It was nearly the middle of the day and we spent it sailing down the Nile on a little felucca. There was no pier for boarding, we just walked up on a fairly rickety thick plank. Kerri was most unimpressed I think, and was strongly considering not going. Again, I seemed the more adventurous one and largely enjoyed myself, though sometimes it felt like we were very close to the water.
Our guide Amro on the ropes.
Sailing down the Nile as we watched our tanned and barefoot sailor navigate the water was an enjoyable experience, and once again I was so thankful that we have had such useful guides the whole way through. I really see the value in bilingualism, because the language divide can sometimes feel so intimidating, even in mild and quite safe circumstances. Navigating the country and organising things would make this trip so much more complicated.
When we returned to our boat I took a dip in the seriously icy waters of the plunge pool on the roof. Looking out from there to the Nile river, to numerous feluccas and the desert beyond was a really special experience, and I listened to some podcasts and read for a while after that, packed my bag and just generally enjoyed the relaxed feel of the afternoon. Again we had free time but we spent it on naps!
We briefly stopped at a memorial signifying Egypt's co-operation with the Soviet Union which was shaped as a lotus flower and quite enormous.
View looking up from the centre.
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