Day 10

SATURDAY 19th DECEMBER



Synopsis of day: Bethlehem. The horror, the horror.

Spiritual Sites visited: The church of the Nativity, Shepherd’s Fields.

Biblical Connections: Birth of Christ and the announcement to the shepherds.

Highlight of the day: The mass we held in an antechamber of St. Catherine's church (where the midnight mass is held in Bethlehem).

St Catherine's church. We were to the right of this part for our mass.

It seems all Catholic services during Advent sing at least the first verse of 'O Come, O Come Emmanuel'. While I didn't know all of the correct responses during the mass, I think I was one of the only ones who managed through all the verses of O Little Town of Bethlehem' and 'What Child is this' (since we had no songbooks) though they were sung in a lower key than I am used to.
Lowlight of the day: Queueing and then entering the grotto inside the Church of the Nativity (which is probably an authentic site). The church itself was such a shambled homage and any true beauty in the place has been long since forcibly removed and replaced by gaudy decorations.

Favourite photo:

Cultural-shock moment: Our bus got rolled into by a car ahead of us on a hill in Bethlehem. The immediate mass crowd and loud accusations outside were a bit astonishing. Even more than that however, would be the wall beween Israeli and Palestinian territory. Gila, as a Jew, was unable to enter so we had a different guide that day, and we had to show our passports to the gun-wielding soldiers patrolling the boundary. Bethlehem was so much closer to Jerusalem than I had suspected, but because of the political borders and its location on the West Bank, it felt separate from Israel.

Favourite purchase: Got the Christmas KK present for someone in the group.

The thing I lost today: My illusions about what the nativity was like.

Random act of crazy: See cultural shock above. Alternatively the silver-handed Madonna and child picture, or anything the Greek Orthodox church has laid its hand on in the Church of the Nativity.

I STILL don't get it.

New category: What Arthur did next: Today Arthur started chastising the candle-sellers in the church because they were quietly chatting in an area where the queues were expected to be quiet. One of the candlemakers took extreme offense and it nearly got messy. Sometimes disowning him seems like a really good idea, he has on numerous occasions drawn attention to things that don't really concern us. There was a big incident on Temple Mount too with some fighting children.

Something I want to remember: I'd rather forget, to be honest.






I have something to confess. I LIKE the Western and sanitised version of Christmas. It seems very removed from the Australian summer context, and I am happy to know about all the historical data disproving December 25, 0AD (though bless those year 7's who fall for it, every year). I still like to celebrate with the little mythologies we have. It feels like most of that has been shattered now. Winter is not cold here! Mangers are not like we make them! Mary probably didn't own anything blue! We had a lovely little mass but even singing the carols felt different after I'd seen Bethlehem. So many Bible passages and songs have additional meaning now, but as I said in yesterday's entry, for the most part it hasn't forced a physical response, more intellectual and in some parts emotionaI. Bethlehem is different. I really was negatively overwhelmed by the Church of the Nativity, though not as strongly as Kerri. She hated, while I just disliked or found bewildering, I think.

Lots of doorways are Erin-sized. This one even I needed to duck for though.

While one lantern looks fine...

With sites this holy they can't seem to help themselves!

Candle overdose is another hallmark of the piety. The melted wax collection at the bottom was not so pretty!

After the church of the Nativity, we had the mass but then headed off to Shepherd’s fields which were more original looking than the church, but still affected by the apparent need to add elements to the story. It struck me that some part of the additions I was okay with – like little star shaped lights in the top of the cave – I took some pictures of those that I liked. The nativity scene surrounded by cherubs not so much. It was interesting that the top of the cave was blackened from candle use over time. We then went into the church that was (of course) built on top of the cave and it was a nice little place.

Inside the cave.

Another thing that I have really noticed is that because of the Jewish Hannukah festival (which ended this evening) and all the menorahs out on the streets and decorating places, there is scant evidence for Christmas celebrations. It has been the most understated lead up to Christmas ever, with none of the usual fanfare (which is probably why Bethlehem has been even more disenchanting – things there seemed so forced too). With the Muslim and Jewish communities not celebrating, it is not a big deal here in Israel, and even though I know we've made of it many silly Western traditions (and a number of which we scoff at and criticise), I'm really going to miss all that silliness this year, despite my spending this Holy Day in the Holy Land.






Found these articles on the SMH which I scan occasionally when I am too tired to do much else, and enjoying the Christmas fervour over there. Israel and Christmas were mentioned in each of them (well the top destination for Christmas says West Bank, but given I was there so recently it totally counts).

Top places to visit at Christmas.. Bethlehem #1
(totally disagree with the caption on the picture. In another note – I'VE BEEN THERE!!)

The Bethlehem Herald, c.6-4BC 
(Mum & Dad, I bought you a copy of this today!)

John Dickson's take on the historical authenticity 
(John Dickson wrote a good one for Good Friday too).